Representing the diverse flavours of Mumbai in any form is a challenging task. This constantly expanding, constantly evolving city often evades categorisation. This fluidity is charmingly disconcerting and almost always fascinating to investigate. We recently dined at Aamchi, a vegetarian café dedicated to celebrating Mumbai in a nostalgic way. And, in terms of exploring the dynamism of the city, it gave us a lot to think about (as well as consume, of course). Aamchi was founded by Pinky Chandan Dixit, who is also the force behind the celebrated restaurant Som. The Maharashtrian name translates to “ours” and is a lovely adjective often associated with the city (you may find the words “Aamchi Mumbai” in Hindi).
Photo Credit: Amchi
This cosy cafe tries to map Mumbai on the menu through classic bites and street-style snacks. At its core, it’s about highlighting the vibrancy of some of Mumbai’s communities and history. Some of the approaches are new, but the dishes on offer at Aamchi are rarely unfamiliar or uncomfortably experimental. “While trying to do something different, it’s important that we also respect the original. I feel very strongly about that. If I’m recreating a dish, I don’t want to change it so much that the essence and flavour is lost,” Pinky tells me. Our experience over the meal reflects our commitment to balance.
Photo Credit: Amchi
Most of the dishes are either named after or influenced by favourite flavours from different areas of the city. Some examples are Matunga Rasam, Nariman Chaat Salad, Shivaji Park Veggie Loaded Thalipeeth and Zaveri Bazaar Corn Upma. For someone who has grown up or spent many years in Mumbai, these resonances can be heart-warming. It is also a reflection of Amchi’s individual roots rather than collective ones. “For me, food is a memory bank. Some of these dishes have come from there – they are influenced by the foods and experiences my team and I have had growing up and over the years in Mumbai,” Pinky explains.
Khatta Thela Salad. Photo Credit: Toshita Sahni
We started our meal with this Sour jam saladThe evening’s favourite. This unique dish pays homage to the sweet and sour handmade street food that used to be common outside schools and offices. However, the tangy flavour in Amchi’s version is derived from different ingredients. Pinky explains, “We want to create dishes that appeal not just once but again and again. The aim is not to compete with other similar dishes but to create our own identity.” Our delicious bowl was filled with raw mango, raw papaya, dried berries and starfruit, mixed in a light, tangy dressing. We were also surprised to see small pieces of chikki that held all the elements together very well.
Photo Credit: Amchi
We also tasted the city’s famous street food ‘Amchi’: Vada Pav Sliders.This snack is served superbly with four spicy condiments (chilli pickle, garlic thecha, peri peri, hirva thecha) for each portion. We loved the melt-in-the-mouth softness of the sliders, but being native Mumbaikars, we couldn’t resist the urge for something more spicy.
Dal tikki chaat. Photo Credit: Toshita Sahni
in small plates, Dal Tikki Chaat It did better justice to its street origins. Inspired by the chhole tikkis from Chembur Sindhi Camp, it was a flavourful dish (as chaat should be). Next, we opted for a new option: Mango Papad Dahi KababThe kebabs were light and airy and had a piece of citrus candy in the center.
Kala Khatta Slushie. Photo Credit: Toshita Sahni
We enjoyed the cool breeze as we engrossed in our food Kokum Spritzer And Spicy Pomegranate PalomaAmchi also has classic coffee, tea and milkshake options. For the ultimate Bombay experience, you’ll want to drink the Irani Chai. But if you want something cold, we recommend the slushies – specifically Black and white Taste. Thinking back to childhood days of walks on the beach and eating the sharp, icy shells, we emptied our glasses.
Photo Credit: Amchi
Amchi’s location adds to its charm. Through the arched windows you can see part of Girgaum Chowpatty Beach in the distance. Inside, the ambiance aims to capture the nostalgic charm of Bombay, with high ceilings, intricately patterned tiles, vintage wooden jaalis and green additions that remind one of the iconic gardens around the city. The decor and menu also have a nod to old-fashioned gymkhanas and clubs, Pinky tells me. They may now be primarily associated with Mumbai (or Bombay) of a bygone era, but that only aligns with the theme. While the ambiance is a credit to the talents of Saloni Kothari of Studio SKO, the wallpapers are designed by Krishna Mehta of India Circus
Sindhi Sai Bhaji Meal. Photo Credit: Amchi
For the main meal, Amchi offers you a wide range of options, from local favourites like Varan Bhaat and Sindhi Sai Bhaji Meal to cafe classics like Mac and Cheese and Khow Suey. We thoroughly enjoyed it. Amchi Thecha Rolls with MisalInstead of the regular pav, the spicy curry-like delicacy was served on a flaky roll topped with green thecha. It introduced us to a unique new pairing that was really delicious. If you want to eat something less spicy but still nutritious, this is it Saayan Da Stuffed Paratha Maybe that would work. Choose from home made aloo or paneer parathas served with delicious butter, pickles and boondi raita.
Photo Credit: Amchi
When it comes to sweets, Amchi’s range doesn’t disappoint either. Almost every option seemed to be the epitome of indulgence and comfort. We relished creamy and rich sweets Kulfi FaloodaWhich is a tribute to the Crawford Market version. We spent our time enjoying a combination of malai kulfi, rabri, vermicelli, nuts and rose syrup, sabja, as we watched the sunset outside the window filling the sky and sea with bright colours.
Where: Sony Building, Dadi Sheth Wadi, Malabar Hill, Mumbai.
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