“This is our Kolhapuri chappal. The pride of India. This is our legacy.”

This is the feeling of fashion in India, when the model walks on the ramp at Prada Show in Milan … No surprise here … Our very Kolhapuri chappals at Milan Milan Fashion Week.

Of the 56 looks presented in the fashion showcase, at least seven Prada Spring Summer 2026 Kolhapuris was completed with a leather chapel of India for centuries. A No-Fus Brown Leather Flat with a classic T-strap attached to a toe loop, which is completed with complex embossing, cutwork and hanging accents.

Just these people emerged on the sides with the name of the Italian luxury brand. These Prada Kolhapuris … Irr … Leather flat sandals face mixed reactions. While many globally are reported about the representation of an Indian fashion staple, others demand acknowledgment and payable credit.

This, after all, may not be the next Scandinavian scarf! Especially when this piece of our heritage comes with a GI tag and a story that goes back to generations.

Original

Kolhapuri Chappal is a traditional craft, which has been practiced by Cobels in Maharashtra and Karnataka. He returned during the 12th century, during the rule of King Bijjal in Bidar (Karnataka). His Prime Minister, Vishwaguru Basavanna aimed to construct a Castles Society and uplift the cobbler community, which then adopted Lingayat faith and started crafting sustainable, dignified shoes.

The ‘Kolhapuri’ brand emerged only in the early 20th century, when the shoe business began in Kolhapur, Maharashtra. Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj later promoted his production and established 29 tanning centers in the region.

In 2019, the controller of Patent, Design and Trade Marx (CGPDTM) gave a geographical signal (GI) tag to Kolhapuri Chappal, recognizing their origin in eight districts: Kolhapur, Sangli, Solpur and Satra in Maharashtra, and Belgaum, Dharvavakot and Bayjapur.

Kolhapuri slippers are set separately that they are handmade, vegetable-today are designed using leather and traditional techniques and equipment. This process is very careful and it takes several days for Kolhapuri Chapel along with many people.

If they are not handmade with leather, they are not real Kolhapuris.

Kolhapuri Chappal: functional, strong and forever in Vogue

From Kings to The Common Man, Kolhapuris have been shoes of choice under their feet. The Beatles also wore him. So there were many politicians. Celebrity continues passion on these. They are comfortable, versatile and strong. For college, Kolhapuris goes with a heavy wedding finish to Kurt-Jees Combo, Kolhapuris.

“In the world pursuing the next major trend, some designs have stood on the test of time like Kolhapuri Chappal with their original tradition in the early 13th century in Maharashtra. The sun, heat and long work in the area, they were functional, frightening. Footwear label.

She cooperates with artisans in Kolhapur and surrounding areas for the offerings of her brands.

For many people, Kolhapuris are not just shoes but a part of their personality. Skirts, mini skirts, skinny jeans, baggy denims, salwar chemis, a flared dress, sewn kalots, linen pants – nothing that looks with Kolhapuri.

Representation? Rebranding? Or, appropriation?

Back to Prada, now. The brand did not reference to the Indian origin of Kolhapuri in its show note. The shoes were only called leather sandals. However, it is still a chance to give credit where it is payable. When Prada listed the pieces of new collection on his website, everyone’s eyes.

“If we say that they have introduced it to the world, yes, it is a global belief. Kolhapuris now reaches the World Forum, Fashion Week and Luxury Store. But it also realizes that cultural appropriation is designed as luxury. If Praada cooperates with local craftsmanship, the local craftsmanship, then accepts the roots and can be submitted to those who can be handed over. Artimen’s.

As Tor says: “The real luxury is not just what you wear. It is knowing who made it, and why it matters. The world can borrow the look, but don’t forget the dynasty.”

As we are waiting for the acknowledgment from the Italian luxury label, Kolhapuri Chappell faces challenges in its own country, in which many internal sources are afraid that the real craft may die soon. Lack of labor is a major concern, and therefore there is a flood of cheap replications in the country.

Do you think that Kolhapuri chappals you bought from Hill Road or Sarojini Nagar for 250 rupees are real Kolhapuris? No, they are not. A real Kolhapuri is built with real leather and most of the cost is between Rs 1,500 to Rs 3,000.

Design-wise, there are 10 traditional patterns that are really authentic, although there are now modern interpretations.

Shortage of labor and other issues in Kolhapur

“They are made with chemically processed leather or even synthetic materials. They are often machine-made or gathered with glue without real craftsmanship,” says Rahul.

“The natural process of making actual Kolhapuri slippers begins with the treatment of animal hiding (skin), which takes about 3 to 4 months. In this method, no chemicals are used, only vegetable-based tannings from trees, leaves, etc.

He says that there is also a chemical method that is sharp and takes only 10 to 15 days, but the quality is low and can cause side effects such as itching and allergies.

Handmade leather is much more expensive than a processed one. However, the leather that is handmade is true Kolhapuri.

“There are separate people for each step: cutting, pressing (handed by hand), sewing and braiding. Women artisans mostly handle complex braiding, which goes upstairs like small plates. From the beginning to the end, it takes 4 to 5 days and usually consists of 4 to 5 people with Jeraz.

But the new generations do not want to pursue crafts. The laborious process and the comprehensive availability of fake are among the major causes.

Rahul said, “With the arrival of machines and cheap fake, authentic artisans are decreasing. Many young people from artisan families do not want to continue, they prefer better paid jobs,” Rahul shares. Artisans working with him are mostly elderly, some of them are in their 70s.
Rahul says how some noted Indian brands also charge excessive prices for Kolhapuris, but do not sell real slippers.

He said, “also, authenticity varies, and their prices are quite high, which we sell from Rs 1,500 to Rs 2,000, for that there are Rs 5,000 to Rs 6,000 to Rs 6,000.”

An ANI report published in 2024 also spoke about the lack of labor in and around Kolhapur.

The owner of a shop in Kolhapur told the news agency how the customers often buy the slippers worth one thousand rupees for just 200. “When we offer the original Kolhapuris, they prefer cheap duplicates sold out for 200 to 300 rupees, unaware of their actual value. That is why our business is not progressing,” he said.

Industry stakeholders like Rahul also provide training to new artisans to preserve crafts, and call for maximum training opportunities to keep the craft alive.

As the Anreasita Tor says: “As we celebrate this iconic silhouette, we should also uplift the hands that crafts it, which community protects it, and ecosystems that depend on it.”

Not only Prada and other global brands, but even as Indians, it should ensure that Kolhapuri chapel is standing on the test of time, as if it is all.