I remember when I tasted thari kanji for the first time I asked for extra things. That happened many years ago during Iftar at the house of a former colleague of mine in Mumbai. Salima’s family hails from Kozhikode; This light, sweet drink has been a frequent addition to his family’s iftars. At that time I was new to Malabari cuisine, except popular dishes like Thalassery Biryani. This has changed after several visits to Kozhikode over the past decade, which is now one of my favorite food cities in India.
I had a wonderful, nostalgic experience at the Iftar promotion at Grand Hyatt Kochi. Second time in four years that I was at this hotel during the month of Ramadan and experienced their elaborate iftar; The first thing I sampled was the thari kanji.
Salima’s family now lives in Abu Dhabi and like many people from the Middle East, calls Kozhikode home. They become very indifferent towards Thari Kanji. For Salima, it is a fond childhood memory and reminds her of her late parents. She still breaks her Ramadan fast for several days with a glass of this mild-flavored dish.
The name itself is a bit misleading. Although it is called thari kanji (kanji is the Malayalam word for porridge or porridge), it is not actually porridge. I saw some people breaking their fast with some varieties of dates and a big glass of thari kanji at Malabar Café at Grand Hyatt Kochi. One of the diners told me how this rich drink can keep you active even for a few hours after breaking the fast.
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Photo Courtesy: Grand Hyatt Kochi
Chef Selvaraj has mastered the hotel’s recipe for thari kanji (see recipe) and tells me that even the youngest members of the family can easily digest this sudsy drink. Semolina is easy to digest; There are also some versions that include vermicelli. According to him, it is easy to prepare and is a ‘cool’ dish, making it ideal during the summer months. He also says that there are slight variations across Kerala. For example, their version does not use cardamom which is used in some variations and adds a different flavor profile. It is not lumpy like normal porridge.
Apart from fried nuts and raisins, semolina, milk and coconut milk are the main ingredients; Some versions also add dates to the mix. It is difficult to classify this drink as sweet or salty. Local people of Kozhikode also say that this drink reduces cramps. Another unique twist in the Malabari version is the fried onions. These finely chopped onions are fried until golden brown and add a sweet flavor to the drink. This refreshing and delicious drink is a perfect summer drink and also a healthy drink all year round. You can try our simple recipes:
Thaari Kanji – Recipe:
Recipe Courtesy: Chef Selvaraj, Malabar Café, Grand Hyatt Kochi
Material:
Semolina 100 grams
milk 800 ml
a pinch of salt
Sugar 100 grams (you can reduce it depending on your preference)
coconut milk 200ml
Onion (finely chopped) 30 grams
Ghee 30 ml
Cashews 25 grams
Raisins 10 grams
Method of preparation:
Boil milk in a vessel.
– Add semolina to it and cook it well.
Add sugar, salt and coconut milk.
Check the seasoning and heat ghee in a pan.
Fry the onion until it turns golden brown. Add raisins and cashews. fry for a while longer
Add it to porridge and serve hot
