It was a meal at a wine estate near Cape Town, South Africa that sparked an unexpected journey to explore one of the region’s most fascinating cuisines. I spent the whole day observing the wine scene around Cape Town. A day that took me to four wine estates within a matter of hours in what is fast becoming one of my favorite cities in the world. Le Pommier (the apple tree in French) wine estate was once a flourishing apple orchard (hence the name) dating back to the 1690s. It is located on the main route between Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, both wine hotspots. It was here that I first tasted the South African casserole bobotie. It took me straight to the area where this dish originated and discovered Cape Malay cuisine in one of Cape Town’s most ‘Instagrammed’ spots.
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In the picture: Bo-Kaap area
Ask any local about the most photogenic neighborhoods in Cape Town, and there’s a good chance you’ll be directed towards Bo-Kaap (translating to ‘top of the Cape’ in Afrikaans). Almost every corner of this grid, formerly known as the city’s Malay Quarter, is a great spot for pictures. Brightly colored houses are complemented by cobbled-stone streets in an area that has the largest concentration of pre-1850 architecture in South Africa. Bo-Kaap Kombuis is a local legend and a restaurant that serves authentic Cape Malay cuisine. So what is this unique dish and what is its origin? A visit to the Bo-Kaap Museum in the area is the best option for a backstory that dates back to the days of the Dutch East India Company.
Cape Town developed from the colony established by the Dutch at the Cape of Good Hope. During this period the Dutch also occupied the Dutch East Indies (Indonesia) and Dutch Malacca (now in Malaysia – which is also the center of Peranakan cuisine) from 1641 to 1824. The Dutch brought many slaves from the region, many of whom were Indians. Were Muslims. Slavery was abolished after the British took over the region in the 19th century. Most of the freed slaves began to congregate around Cape Town, which was the only center of Islamic faith in the region at the time. Bo-Kaap is also home to the historic Nurul Mosque, established in the 1840s. This community became known as the Cape Malay community, although many of them were also from India. The community began to develop their own unique cuisine which is now recognized as one of South Africa’s most unique micro-cuisines.
Pictured: Dessert plate at Bo-Kaap Kombuis
Youssef and Nazli, who founded Bo-Kaap Kombuis (Cook House), are from this area. I didn’t announce my arrival and chose one of their three Cape Malay tasting platters and a dessert platter. The tasting platter included a lamb curry, bobotie and a chicken curry served with rice, Malay-style sambal and ruti (spelled with an extra ‘o’). Each of these dishes had a unique explosion of flavours. The lamb curry had a unique tamarind flavour. The team noted how most dishes contain turmeric, cumin and coriander as additions to the spices. Some recipes also include cloves, cinnamon and cardamom. While Malay influence is predominant, you will also see Indian influences and South African elements in the food. Curries are usually paired with rooties. Their flaky roots include butter, flour and water. It was closer to the Malabar Parotta of South India than the roti of North India.
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In the picture: Bobote
Faldela Williams can take much of the credit for the renewed interest in Cape Malay cuisine. She wrote three cookbooks including The Cape Malay Cookbook which provides great insight into the unique flavors and cooking styles. These are some of the quintessential Cape Malay dishes you must try if you are ever in South Africa. let’s take a look.
Here are 5 classic dishes from Cape Malay cuisine:
1. Coe’s Sisters:
A traditional Cape Malay pastry with a cake-like texture studded with desiccated coconut. These are prepared from balls of dough flavored with spices such as cinnamon and cardamom, then cooked in boiling syrup before being sprinkled with coconut and then cooled.
2. Society:
Satay or satay – skewers served with peanut sauce, is one of Malaysia’s most famous dishes. Sosaiti is the Cape Town version and takes its name from satay and sauce (for spicy sauce). Mutton pieces are marinated (mostly overnight) with flavoring agents like garlic and curry leaves and then pan-fried or grilled.
3.Boboti:
It is sometimes called the national dish of South Africa because the dish has become so popular. This casserole (sometimes served in restaurants in a cast iron skillet) consists of grated meat at the base with a layer of egg custard on top. The version I tried was served with yellow rice and sambal.
4. Biryani:
The Cape Malay version is unique as it uses lentils along with meat. Indian versions of biryani have the same spices but the rice, lentils, meat and gravy are cooked separately and mixed together.
5. Tomato Bready:
Its name is derived from the African word stew (brady). This stew is now eaten throughout the country but is believed to have been introduced by Cape Malaysia. This spicy stew combines tomatoes, mutton ribs and vegetables that are cooked for a long time with seasonings.
