“New hair, new to me” – they say it for a reason! Dyeing your hair is one of the best ways to adopt a makeover. Like your overall style, your hair color is also an expression of your personality. While some go bold with vibrant colors (think pink, green, or blue), others prefer the timeless beauty of natural brown or the glamorous allure of mahogany. The color options are endless, and there is also a variety of products available to choose from.

However, despite the excitement of choosing a new shade, there is often one concern associated with coloring hair – premature graying. A common belief, especially in Indian households, suggests that changing the natural color of your hair with dyes or chemical products will inevitably lead to graying of hair.

This belief has persisted for years, leaving many people determined to avoid hair coloring. Doesn’t this remind you of that time when your parents sternly warned you not to “ruin” your hair by coloring it in your 20s?

But how true is this belief? Does dyeing your hair actually cause gray hair, or is it just a myth that’s keeping you from achieving the hair makeover of your dreams? The irony is that the answer is not black or white – it lies somewhere in the grey.

What do experts say

Colored hair or not, the younger generation (Millennials and Gen Z) is experiencing premature graying at an alarming rate anyway. Experts blame genetics, nutritional deficiencies, stress, poor lifestyle choices such as alcohol consumption and smoking, multiple medical conditions and environmental factors such as pollution, UV rays and oxidative stress.

“Graying of hair is mainly influenced by three factors: genetic predisposition, sun exposure and stress. The graying process occurs when melanocytes, cells that produce color in hair follicles, reduce their activity or die. It is a natural biological process and is not triggered by coloring the hair,” says Dr Geetika Srivastava, dermatologist and founder of Influenza Skin and Hair Clinic, Delhi.

Experts say that hair coloring is not directly linked to graying, and there is currently no meta-analysis or sufficient scientific evidence to support such a connection.

“Hair dye only affects the outer layer of your hair, but not the follicles that determine the color. Although frequent use of harsh chemical dyes damages your hair by making it dull and brittle, it There is no reason to turn gray overnight.” Says Dr Ruben Bhasin Pasi, consultant dermatology, CK Birla Hospital, Gurugram.

Bleach to blame?

However, the involvement of bleaching – the process used to lighten the natural hair color to deposit artificial color – cannot be ignored.

“When you start coloring your hair, it can contribute to increased graying, mainly due to the bleach used in the process. “Global color and highlight techniques, especially, can damage the hair roots and overall quality of the hair due to the harsh chemicals they contain,” says Delhi-based dermatologist Dr Deepali Bhardwaj.

“Permanent and semi-permanent hair dyes typically rely on chemicals like hydrogen peroxide and ammonia to set or lighten the color. These chemicals oxidize the natural melanin in your hair, causing permanent color change. Over time, repeated exposure can cause hair to appear lighter than even the color without,” says Dr. Srivastava.

According to a study published in PubMed Central, accumulation of hydrogen peroxide in hair follicles contributes to graying of hair.

However, this can be managed by choosing darker hair colors or temporary hair dyes that do not require bleaching.

Many modern hair color products have evolved to be gentle. They’re often rich in antioxidants to help combat oxidative damage, contain ammonia-free formulas, and contain nourishing ingredients that protect and condition the hair.

To enjoy hair coloring without compromising hair health, choose high-quality products, exercise patience, and follow a rigorous hair care routine.

Hair color and hair health

Hair coloring in general can also have significant effects on hair health:

• dehydration: Bleaching agents strip hair of its natural oils, leaving it dry and brittle.
• weak structure: Frequent coloring disrupts the protein bond in the hair, which puts them at risk of breakage and split ends.
• scalp sensitivity: The chemicals present in colors can irritate the scalp, causing redness, itching or allergic reactions.
• loss of shine: Frequent coloring damages the hair cuticles, reducing elasticity and natural shine.

“Certain allergies and autoimmune conditions, such as ashy dermatosis, can be caused by the chemicals present in hair dye. This condition gives the skin a grayish tint, starting in the face and spreading throughout the body. These rare but serious side effects make it necessary to out of caution,” says Dr. Bhardwaj.

How to reduce hair color damage

Here are some expert-approved tips for reducing the damage caused by hair color:

• Choose dark or temporary colors, as these do not require bleaching and are gentle on the hair.
• Keep coloring sessions free. Touch up gray hair every 6-8 weeks instead of coloring your entire head.
• Choose ammonia-free products and low-chemical dyes, as they are less harsh and safer for long-term use.
• Apply deep conditioning masks and oil treatments regularly to restore moisture and prevent damage.
• Support hair health with a protein-rich diet and supplements like biotin and zinc, especially before (15 days before is a good time) and after the dyeing session.

Experts also suggest home remedies like applying curd mask every week and steaming the scalp twice a month to keep hair and scalp healthy.