When you meet the world’s leading Japanese chef, you have to ask him about sushi. So I did – and his approach was all about simplicity and satisfaction, in his words and on the plate. When asked about good sushi, Chef Masaharu Morimoto said, “Find a chef or restaurant you trust completely – that’s my only advice.” Today, a special generation of foodies around the world are interested in Japanese cuisine thanks to social media. But long before these dishes were labelled ‘viral trends’, Chef Morimoto promoted them around the world in exciting ways. “People always say that Japanese cuisine has a lot of rules. But I’m constantly thinking about how I can break them,” he said. Today, he is regarded as one of the greatest figures in the culinary world, having run a number of restaurants that have stood the test of time.
In India, Chef Morimoto is perhaps best known for his pioneering restaurant Wasabi by Morimoto, which first opened in 2004 at the Taj Palace Hotel in Mumbai. Its establishment was significant on many levels. It was the chef’s second venture under his own name after setting up a restaurant in Philadelphia in 2001. Moreover, it holds the title of the restaurant that introduced the city to Japanese cuisine. This year, Wasabi by Morimoto celebrates its 20th anniversary – marking two decades of delighting guests with its finest Japanese cuisine under the guidance of its maestro.
Photo Credit: Wasabi by Morimoto
We were among the lucky few to experience the special omakase menu prepared by the chef for the 20th anniversary. The good news is that many of the dishes on it are set to be incorporated into the regular menu – allowing future diners to enjoy the rich flavours from his legacy. We had the chance to unwrap a vibrant signature salad that the chef once served at a gala dinner at the White House. This was followed by a selection of heavenly sushi: toro aburi, spicy hamachi rolls, salmon ikura and more. The main dishes were also befitting a feast – ours included a delicious lamb chop and an amazing grilled Chilean sea bass cooked on a robata with yuzu kosho punju sauce. We’re told the latter is one of Chef Morimoto’s favourite cooking styles. The trio of desserts – musk melon brandy jelly, fig mousse, and a dreamy matcha cheesecake – ended up being one of the most memorable meals we’ve had in recent times. If you’re a vegetarian, know that Chef Morimoto is known for his adaptability—so you might be looking forward to discovering new favorite recipes here, too.
Photo Credit: Wasabi by Morimoto
After the meal, we sat down with the chef for a chat. Below are edited excerpts from our conversation:
1. In recent years, thanks to social media, our way of eating has changed drastically. Do you think people now value more what’s on their plate?
When we first opened a restaurant here and in the United States, we cared about what food critics said. We used to keep track of reviews by critics from top publications. But now, everyone is a critic. They can say whatever they want. We have always cared about regular customers too, but now we have to pay more attention to every aspect of the experience. At the touch of a button, they get a lot of information – whether it’s about the chef’s background, the best place to eat a particular dish, or anything else. Social media is convenient and it’s helping a lot – and I’m talking about both sides of the food industry (customers and chefs).
People often ask me what the best way to make a certain dish is or what they can do to become a better chef. The easiest thing they can do is watch YouTube. I think watching how a dish is made is better than reading about it – even if you read a recipe 100 times in a cookbook, you won’t understand it as well as you would from watching a video.
2. What excites you about the world of cooking and culinary arts in 2024?
What excites me is meeting new people, discovering new cultures and working with new ingredients. People say Japanese food has a lot of rules. But I’m always thinking about how I can break them. You can remove a part of the whole, and add something new. That’s what I like to do and that’s the way travel inspires me. For example, I get a lot of strength and energy from your country. I’m grateful for my trip to India.
3. What material are you enjoying experimenting with at the moment?
There is no specific ingredient, but there is a dish. It is Dosa and it is one of my favourite Indian dishes. I enjoy eating it and experimenting with it. I asked the chef here how the batter is made and for how long it is fermented. I decided to make my own Dosa with different fillings like tuna, poke, tartar, etc. So, currently, I am exploring different Indian techniques (rather than ingredients) for inspiration.
4. How do you stay creative and push the boundaries in your cooking?
First, I have to stay healthy. Secondly, I have to trust the people around me. I am now like the conductor of the orchestra. My role in the kitchen is to direct and coordinate the efforts of others. I would like to be one of the players, but I can’t. Currently, according to my age and condition, I have to remain the conductor.
5. What advice would you give to budding chefs?
I would recommend them to use social media to get better. I mentioned YouTube earlier. You can watch and learn so many different kinds of skills through it. A cookbook or written recipe often doesn’t give you the kind of detail that a video can. The visual element is very important. Also, you have to love what you’re doing. If you’re only in it for the money, don’t do it. You have to have passion if you want to be a really good chef.