In 1848, Auguste Laurent, a French chemist, proposed that the amino acid glycine – then called glycocol – might be the amine of a hypothetical acid, which he named “glycolic acid”. However, just two years before his death, this “hypothetical” acid was first prepared in the laboratory in 1851 by the German chemist Adolf Strecker and the Russian chemist Nikolai Nikolayevich Sokolov. For years, glycolic acid was used in the textile industry as a dyeing and tanning agent.

In nature, glycolic acid comes from sugarcane and can be found in some fruits such as grapes and vegetables such as beets. But it was not until 1992 that the acid entered the cosmetic industry when Avon launched the ANEW skincare line containing glycolic acid.

viral acid

If there’s one active ingredient that has made its way into every beauty lover’s social media feed (guilty), it’s glycolic acid. Not just for face, but this skin care ingredient is going viral for its multi-purpose use. This AHA, which is more useful than your BFF’s advice, is known for its various benefits such as:

• Lighten dark underarms, knees and elbows
• Helping remove dandruff
• get rid of strawberry legs
• acting as deodorant
• boost collagen
• make your skin glow
• acne

Another reason why it has gone viral is that it has been recommended not only by influencers but also by dermatologists on social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok. Recently it has created a stir in India also.

Today, you can find glycolic acid everywhere. From big brands to pharmacy brands, it is now available across India.

But how does glycolic acid work?

Glycolic acid is a powerful alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) known for its exfoliating and collagen-boosting properties.

“It works by dissolving the glue that binds dead skin cells together, allowing them to slough off,” explains Dr Ruben Bhasin Pasi, consultant dermatology, CK Birla Hospital, Gurugram.

Dr Trupti Aggarwal, Consultant Dermatology, Sir HN Reliance Foundation Hospital, explains India Today This process promotes cell turnover, which helps in skin renewal. By removing the outer layer of dead skin, glycolic acid exposes a brighter, more even skin tone and encourages collagen production, which is vital for youthful skin.

But can glycolic acid really solve all your skin and body care problems? We detailed each benefit of the acid with expert input:

What do the experts say?

Exfoliation and texture improvement

“Glycolic acid penetrates deeply to exfoliate the skin and promote smoother skin,” says Dr. Aggarwal. Its ability to break down the bonds between dead skin cells increases cell turnover, resulting in a fresh, glowing complexion.

A 2013 scientific review also suggests that the effectiveness of glycolic acid as a chemical peel may help combat acne due to its absorbent properties. However, according to studies, use of stronger concentrations (higher than what we find in our serum) should be done under specialist supervision. A study from May 2020 also says the same.

collagen stimulation

Mumbai-based dermatologist Dr. Aparna Santhanam shares, “Glycolic acid stimulates fibroblast activity (this is a type of cell that produces collagen), increasing collagen production. It not only improves the firmness “But also reduces the appearance of fine lines over time.”

bright and dark skin color

Dr. Rinke Kapoor, consultant dermatologist, cosmetic dermatologist, and skin-surgeon, The Aesthetic Clinics, Mumbai, says, “It helps to even out the skin tone, and removes dark spots by penetrating deep into the skin. And tackles signs of aging like wrinkles.”

Hyperpigmentation and dark spots

Dr. Agarwal explains, “Glycolic acid inhibits the tyrosinase enzyme (this is an enzyme that controls the production of melanin, the pigment that gives color to the skin, hair, and eyes), reducing melanin production. Making it effective for treating hyperpigmentation, melasma, and post-inflammatory scars.”

use of deodorant

“Glycolic acid lowers the pH of the skin, which prevents odor-causing bacteria from growing,” explains Dr. Santhanam. The May 2020 study mentioned above suggests that this bacteria-killing feature may help prevent odor.

strawberry legs

Dark spots or bumps on the legs, which are often caused by ingrown hairs, can benefit from the exfoliating properties of glycolic acid. It helps in clearing clogged pores and enhancing the beauty of the skin.

black neck, knees and elbows

Dr. Aggarwal says that these areas have thick skin that can darken over time due to friction or a build-up of dead skin cells. Applying glycolic acid can help reduce hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone.

side effects

While glycolic acid is effective, it is not without potential drawbacks.

Some possible side effects include:

• redness
• Burn
• dryness
• peel
• increased sensitivity to sun

How to include it in your skin care routine

To choose the right product, Dr. Rinki Kapoor suggests, “Start with a glycolic acid toner, serum or cream at a low concentration, like 5-10%. Gradually increase usage as your skin tolerates it. “

application stage

1. Pure: Start with a clean, dry face.
2. apply: Use a thin layer of the glycolic acid product, avoiding the eye area.
3. Moisturize: Use a hydrating product to balance the effects.
4. to protect: Always use sunscreen during the day to protect against UV damage.

P.S.: This glycolic acid is also used in chemical peel facial (20-70 percent) which you can avail in the clinic.

Don’t forget:

• Start with a patch test to avoid irritation.
• Combine glycolic acid with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid to balance its effects.

Memorization…

• Avoid mixing it with other powerful active ingredients like retinoids, vitamin C, or benzoyl peroxide in the same routine to prevent irritation.
• Limit use during pregnancy unless advised by a dermatologist.

ground level

Glycolic acid is a game-changer in skin care due to its exfoliative, hydrating and rejuvenating properties. Whether you’re addressing physical problems like black knees or strawberry legs or facial problems like acne or pigmentation, this powerhouse ingredient delivers excellent results when used correctly. But, experts suggest that you should always balance its use with proper hydration and sun protection to maximize benefits and minimize risks.