Chef Will Aghajanian, when asked to sum up the dining experience at The Table, said, “We never think ‘Look how much we can do!’ I think food is simple and not trying to be pretentious.” Chef Will has recently been appointed as Chef-in-Residence at Colaba’s beloved and multi-award-winning hotspot. Originally from Washington DC, Chef Will has worked in several renowned kitchens including Per Se in New York, MIMI in Greenwich Village, The Catbird Seat in Nashville and Horse in Los Angeles. His new menu for Mumbai restaurant ‘The Table 2.0’ marks a complete makeover after 13 years of its inception. “Food that makes you feel the season and highlighting the ingredients of India are the two pillars of the new menu,” he summarises. But how does this translate into food? We feasted there to find out.
Pappa al pomodoro toast. Photo Credit: The Table
Early feasts embodied the hospitality and informal charm that is associated with The Table. Warm Brioche with whipped goat butter and Pappa al Pomodoro Toast They were gone very quickly. We must say that their deliciousness can convert even those who are against starting with bread. What followed was a seamless and wonderful experience Duck liver mousse With sour cherries. We kept reverent silence to enjoy it all.
Duck liver mousse. Photo Credit: The Table
When one is dining at a restaurant that introduced the farm-to-table philosophy to the country, it would be tough No There are high expectations for salads. Fortunately for us, there was no disappointment, only delight. While the table’s famous Sobo salad has maintained its place on the menu, don’t hesitate to try the vibrant new offerings. We loved this one Panzanella (with crushed cucumber, chopped onion and summer tomatoes) as well as Lollo Rosso and Guava Salad (with chicory, Kashmiri pistachio, Belper Knoll.) The wonderful burst of freshness that came with each bite was a testament to the restaurant’s ingredient-driven foundation.
Photo Credit: The Table
Among the vegetarian small plates, we also enjoyed this focaccia di recoWinter truffles, accompanied by stracchino cheese and oven-roasted grapes. In a way, this divine dish reflects a symphony of wine and cheese on the plate. But that doesn’t mean you should skip the glass. Wine takes center stage at The Table. Its wine program won the ‘Award for Excellence’ by Wine Spectator for four consecutive years starting in 2019. The sommelier can recommend pairings that beautifully enhance the flavors of the fresh ingredients on your plate. The cocktails are also not to be missed – many regulars swear by The Table Mary’s, among other beverages. While there’s a set list of signature and classic cocktails, you’ll also often find special limited-time menus that highlight seasonal ingredients and/or novel techniques.
Lobster Fry Rothschild. Photo Credit: The Table
As we were enjoying our drinks, we also enjoyed the freshness of the sea. If you want a cool and crispy snack, go here. Smoked Salmon TostadaAre you looking for something a little more playful and visually impressive? Lobster Fry RothschildWhich comes with a fabulous bow tie, will surely surprise you. Crab Cake Toast This is the kind of DIY project that you can create right at the table to your liking. Cut the cake with a large pair of scissors, wrap it with lettuce leaves, top it with pickles and sauce, and get ready for a wonderful explosion of flavor.
The pasta and large plate sections of the menu exude comfort and indulgence. We enjoyed every delicious bite Garden Herb Fazzoletti With Tuscan chicken liver ragu, garnished with the goodness of winter truffles. Pan-Roasted Cornish Hen Chef Will later explained that it was based on the infamous roast chicken served at the Zuni Cafe (an iconic establishment in San Francisco). It was a delicious dish that ended the savory portion of our feast.
Jersey Creme Caramel. Photo Credit: The Table
The dessert selection is also appealingly diverse. We’ve heard stories of loyal customers on diets who save their precious ‘cheat’ sweet occasions to eat at the table. Every dessert we tasted struck a balance between familiarity and sophistication. Melt-in-your-mouth dessert Jersey Cream Caramel It had a pungent smell of spices from Montenegro. Santa Rosa Plum Sorbet And this Passion Fruit and Mandarin Creamsicle delivered quiet, fruity satisfaction. We also liked cleverly elevated classics such as Marshmallow ice cream And this Cherry Jubilee Meringue Cake,
Cherry Jubilee Meringue Cake. Photo Credit: The Table
When I asked Chef Will about his vision for the new menu, he said, “I wanted to create a more coherent menu. There have been so many great chefs in the past who have created dishes for The Table, but it was all like a book written by 4 different authors. I just wanted to create simple food, something I would be excited to eat multiple times a week.” In fact, we wanted to have the privilege of tasting such dishes week after week. Our dinner at this Colaba establishment wasn’t just limited to a farm-to-table journey. It was an experience that has etched itself into our fond memories – the next destination.
Where: Table, Ground Floor, Kalapesi Trust Building, Opposite Dhanraj Mahal, Apollo Bunder, Colaba, Mumbai.
Photo Credit: The Table
