Rohit Bal, the artist who told the story of Kashmir in a way that no one could tell
A true pioneer of Indian fashion and an inspirational figure for aspiring designers during the transformative 1990s, Rohit Bal breathed his last on November 1.
Rohit Bal, ‘India’s Master of Fabric and Fantasy’. That was Time magazine in 1996, just six years after Kashmir-born Delhi designer Rohit Bal launched his eponymous label.
A true pioneer of Indian fashion and an inspirational figure for aspiring designers during the transformative 1990s, Rohit Bal breathed his last on November 1 – just a fortnight after making a spectacular comeback on the runway at Lakme Fashion Week.
His return to the runway was perhaps a grand goodbye — grand, like his designs, his parties, his fashion shows, and the legacy he left.
After earning a history degree from St. Stephen’s College, Delhi University, Bal studied fashion at the National Institute of Fashion Technology in Delhi. He began his career working with his brother’s export company in 1986, and eventually launched his eponymous fashion label in 1990 with a traditional menswear collection.
He became one of the most famous fashion designers in the country. His creations, full of extravagance and flamboyance, reflected the rich crafts and textiles of India. Lotus and peacock motifs were the signature symbols of his designs.
“The humility of the swamp lotus and the pride of the peacock are two incredibly brilliant opposites that I have been attracted to throughout my life,” Bal said. peppermint In an interview in 2014. They defined his design language, just as did his penchant for using heavy velvets and brocades in his grandeur.
Talking about grandeur, no one has staged a fashion show with the grandeur that Bal did. One of the most iconic was in 2014, when she showcased the Gulbagh collection with renowned singer Shubha Mudgal against the backdrop of Qutub Minar. This collection, like most of his works, was inspired by his birthplace Kashmir.
“I grew up in Kashmir and Kashmir grew within me. I left Kashmir during my school days but never stopped traveling to that paradise,” said Bal. India Today In 2016.
“Whatever I am today, whoever I am, is all Kashmir. It’s ingrained in my genes, so no matter what I do, there will always be a hint of the uncanny valley in it,” he said.
His last show, Kainaat – A Bloom in the Universe also took inspiration from Kashmir. The fashion world became emotional and ‘Gudda’ – as they fondly called him – received an emotional standing ovation at the show as he danced with the models despite being clearly unwell.
Kashmir remains a part of her work, like the pre-pandemic collection Bouquet, which Ivanka Trump wore to a state dinner at Rashtrapati Bhavan in 2020. He was forced to leave the valley, but Kashmir never left him. The roses, peacocks and lotuses that adorn Bal’s couture creations always tell a Kashmir story.
Apart from India’s finest celebrities, international celebrities like Pamela Anderson, Naomi Campbell and Uma Thurman have worn his creations.
She experimented with traditional silhouettes like Anarkali, Angrakha, Sharara and Lehenga with an added touch of contemporary appeal. The designer also used Western pattern-cutting techniques for royal Indian attire. They also gave traditional charm to long statement jackets.
Black and ivory often served as her canvas, brought to life with her signature pops of red floral motifs, delicate zardozi work and layered intricacies. Ivory, in particular, was his favorite color to work with. The clothes had the heart of muslin.
“I love everything organic. I love the fabric called ‘Mulmal’ or Mulmul, and have used it continuously ever since I can remember. The natural color of muslin is ivory, and if I had my way, I would never look at any other fabric other than muslin,” he told India Today in 2016.
Arjun Rampal (Bal’s close friend), Sonam Kapoor, Sushmita Sen, Kareena Kapoor, Sidharth Malhotra, Katrina Kaif and Deepika Padukone have all walked as showstoppers for Bal in the past. Gen-Z star Ananya Panday kicks off her last show. His maximalist designs moved beyond trends, emerging a timeless appeal that resonates across generations.
Trends never matter to them. A self-labelled ‘traditionalist’, Bal was proud to stay true to his tradition-based design language, his vision and craft-oriented approach.
Ironically, when Sonam Kapoor learned of his death on November 1, she was wearing a Rohit Bal outfit – which consisted of three pieces from different collections.
Bal’s work also included many collaborations that went beyond fashion. He ventured into the restaurant business with Veda and Cibo and also designed the Sagrados Villas in Goa. In a major coup, the hair also walked the ramp and became a showstopper for Abhishek Sharma.
He was Rohit Bal – courageous, fearless, reckless and a brilliant artist who saw fashion as a fantasy.
