One of Italy’s last-fashion fashion emperors, Georgio Armani died at the age of 91. For decades, he rebuilt the silhouette of the modern suit, softened his rows, and created a vocabulary of intelligent luxury that became synonymous with refinement, comfort and calm rights.

Armani was born in July 1934, in the northern Italian city of Piyasenza, which faced intensive bombing during World War II. During a shelling in childhood, he was badly burnt, an experience that kept him in the hospital for weeks and left a lifetime mark on his early ambitions. “I suddenly closed my eyes and did not open them again for 20 days,” he later said in an interview the new York TimesHe spent his youth dreaming of becoming a doctor, who was inspired by the great idea of ​​saving life. He studied the drug at Milan University for three years, but eventually chose to work to support his family.

His rise for the greatness of fashion began in the late 1950s when he joined a department store in Milan, first as a window dresser and assistant photographer, before going to fashion design under Nino Seruti. Still it was not until he became 40 years old that he felt ready to launch his own brand, encouraging his late companion, Sergio Geloti to every step.

An architectural draftsman Galoti believed him unbreakable. “It was a Sergio who believed in me,” Armani said Giku In 2015. “Sergio believed me in himself. They saw me the big world.” Geloti’s death in 1985 due to AIDS was an intensive personal and professional disadvantage. Armani described the year in his autobiography, “As I was stopping my breath, without thinking, working on the day and day of work.”

I spoke to him through zoom in 2018 for an interview Bride todayWith the mediation of a translator. At the age of 83, he looked remarkably healthy: a midnight blue T-shirt and navy blue trousers tanned, tanned, trimmed and dressed in his signature uniform. He spoke slowly but with authority. “I think my solution has always been to innovate continuously yet: in this way, the classic, elegant and minimal is never boring, but consistently an interesting, sometimes more liquids for the present results and more liquid,” he said.

Armani’s talent was as much in sewing as it was in understanding the power of cinema and celebrity. “After the success of American Gigolo, on which I supported designing costumes for Richard Gere, it was immediately clear to me that, from this point of view, the actor could be on the public,” he told me. From Hollywood to Bollywood, their customers became their alive, moving advertisements. She dressed stars including Kate Blanchet, Lady Gaga, Rihanna, Julia Roberts and Leonardo Dicaprio, as well as Aishwarya Rai and Sonam Kapoor.

His work on the film was transformative. American Gigolo (1980) introduced Gere into earth-tone suits and knit relations, which perfectly captures Armani’s signature, soft-kande jackets. On television, Don Johnson’s Pale Armani jacket on a T-shirt in Miami Vice became a template for casual masculinity. Later, his designs were seen in the untouchables in Robert de Niro, Michael Keon in Batman and Leonardo Dicaprio in Wolf of Wall Street.

Even on red carpet, Armani changed Hollywood fashion. Female customers – Gwneth Paltro, Kate Blanchets, Mitchell Pafifififer, and Beyoncay – repeated their compositions with a poem, which was still considered easily. Male stars from George Clooney to Russell Crow adopted their taxidos and suits as an extension of their appearance.

In India, Armani reflected on its beauty and cultural prosperity: “India has a rich culture and a specific beauty; it has often inspired new collections over the years. I especially prefer the dynamics of the country, in which traditions are still very alive, which are still very alive with the concept of luxury, with popular culture closely connected to popular culture:” Dressing is the most important of the days: “Dressing.” However, I would suggest that I am going for a luxurious, elegant suit that is becoming and makes you feel completely comfortable. “

His influence increased deeply in Bollywood. He prepared Aishwarya Rai in Cannes, which created a global red-carpet moment that reflected her Hollywood influence. He also styled Sonam Kapoor, understood his signature and understood soft tailoring for Indian screen and red carpets, showing that his aesthetics crossed continents and cultures.

Armani’s SS’18 collection, built in Armani, separated a very accurate index of its strength. A crushed and crisp linen mix had a tall double-breadted trendycot, which was much more additional without offering a high-cut peakot, a rainbow silver-ranked suit, and a series of high-heated jackets-all offerings and originality. “For spring/summer, I re -presented my brand’s major menwear pieces, resumed the most classic outerwear designs with a new look, summer colors, optical prints and choosing modern shapes. The result is new comfort and freshness in a panoramic opposite, but what is never away,” he said. A chic lineup of all-white suits, in some cerrsukar, two buttons or three buttons, shawl collar or narrow peak lapels closed the show with a crystal-clier message: When it comes to an unnecessary suit, there is no one that is better than Amani.

Gently defined her legacy by sewn -covered jackets, erotic knit sweaters, soil color, and summer white clothing. Armani’s talent was in restraint: clothes were not armor, but an invitation – to move forward independently, to reside yourself completely, to feel elegance as a living experience.

From Milan’s Attiers to the Hollywood’s red carpet and a lively set of Bollywood, a completely sewn in the groom in a soft suit from a businessman, its effect is, subtle but deep everywhere. Every costume carries out its ethos: elegance remains, not provoked.

Armani remained completely private about the future of his empire. Until very last, he told the new York Times“Later there will be a lot of time for others. As long as I am here, I am a boss.”

Armani died yesterday, leaving behind the soft world from his touch, wrapped in his vision -shaped, and forever wrapped in calm elegance, he made his own comfortable.