I was at my favourite restaurant in Kodaikanal, Ten Degrees, when the conversation with the chef turned to local ingredients from around Kodai. One ingredient that came up was kalpasi (also called dagad phool in Hindi). The chef mentioned that kalpasi also known as black stone flower (Parmotrema perlatum) is basically dried lichen that grows in the lower levels of Kodaikanal. They are usually found on rocks and tree branches. Not too far from Kodaikanal is the region of Chettinad in southern Tamil Nadu which is home to the Nattukottai Chettiars. The community’s trading relations around Southeast Asia have shaped the distinct identity of this cuisine. The cooking style may be rooted in the heart of Tamil Nadu, but is enriched with an unusual and often exotic set of ingredients. Kalpasi is one of these ingredients.
It is not just in India, but lichens are used all over the world. Iceland moss (Cetraria icelandica) used to be a major ingredient in Northern Europe and Scandinavia. From bread to puddings and porridge, this lichen is used in many recipes.
Also read: Chettinad Kara Paniyaram can lead to food frenzy and tummy happiness
In its raw state, this ingredient doesn’t have much flavor or aroma, but everything changes when it’s exposed to heat. When it’s heated with cooking oil or ghee, it releases a very distinctive earthy, almost smoky flavor. This is one of the reasons it’s used in the tempering process and in biryani spices all across India.
Kalpasi is the main ingredient in the Kalpasi Chicken Chukka (see recipe) that I ate at Feathers Hotel Sanghamitrai. Sanghamitrai serves regional cuisines from across Tamil Nadu and the hotel’s executive chef Prem Kumar believes that Kalpasi adds a wonderful dimension to this chicken chukka that tastes really good as a starter. The second dish I tasted was Kaikari Venjanam – a thick vegetable curry that is great to have with dosas or as a side with rice and sambar or rasam. This vegetarian dish has a mix of other spices that include cinnamon, cloves, fennel and bay leaves. It also includes star anise, another spice that is unique to Chettinad cuisine, but it is the Kalpasi that enhances the flavour of this dish
Also read: 6 Quick and Easy South Indian Tiffin Recipes for Busy Mornings
what to do venjanam
Recipe courtesy – Prem Kumar, Executive Chef, Feathers Hotel, Chennai
what to do venjanam Photo courtesy: Sangamithirai, Feathers Hotel Chennai
Material:
- Cooking oil – 15 ml (peanut oil works best)
- Cinnamon – 2 grams
- Cloves – 1 gram
- Fennel seeds – 1 gram
- Bay leaf- 1 gram
- Cardamom – 1 gram
- Star anise – 1 small pod
- Kalpaasi-2 gm
- Coriander powder – 10 grams
- Chilli powder – 5 gms
- Turmeric powder – 2 grams
- Fennel powder – 5 grams
- Chettinadu masala powder- 2 grams
- Coconut paste- 15 gms
- Onion – 50 grams
- Tomatoes – 25 grams
- Ginger garlic paste – 10 gms
- A few sprigs of curry leaves
- A few strands of fresh coriander
- Mix of vegetables (you can also add drumsticks, brinjals and potatoes)
Method:
- Heat oil in a frying pan.
- When the oil becomes hot, add garam masala and onion in it.
- When onions turn golden, add ginger garlic paste, tomatoes and mixed vegetables. Sprinkle some water.
- Add all the spices mentioned in the recipe. Cook till the raw smell disappears.
- When the vegetables are cooked, add coconut paste to it.
- Finish with fresh coriander leaves.
Kalpaasi Chicken Chukka
Recipe courtesy – Prem Kumar, Executive Chef, Feathers Hotel, Chennai
Material
- Cooking oil – 25 ml
- Cinnamon – 2 grams
- Cardamom – 1 gram
- Fennel seeds – 1 gram
- Bay leaf – 1
- Mace – 1 gram
- Marathi Moggu (Kapok Buds) – 1 gram
- Star anise – 1 small pod
- Kalpaasi – 5 grams
- Curry powder – 5 gms
- Coriander powder – 10 gms
- Turmeric powder – 5 grams
- Fennel powder – 2 grams
- Cumin powder – 5 gms
- Onion – 50 grams
- Tomato – 10 gms
- Ginger garlic paste- 10 gms
- Chopped garlic – 2 gms
- Chopped green chillies – 2
Method:
- Put oil in the pan and when the oil becomes hot, add whole spices in it.
- Add onion to it and fry till golden brown.
- When the tomatoes are cooked, add ginger garlic paste and tomatoes to it.
- When the raw tomatoes are cooked, add coriander powder, fennel powder, turmeric powder, black pepper powder and cumin powder to it.
- When the raw smell disappears, add chicken to it.
- Fry the chicken until it is soft.
- Tadka with oil and kalpasi.
- Finish by adding curry powder, curry leaves and fresh coriander.
