In Puducherry: Tamil food, French flavours and Bay of Bengal breeze
Puducherry or Pondicherry, a blend of French and Tamil culture with some Dutch and some Portuguese culture mixed in, is a perfect destination for a long weekend.
In short
- The Union Territory of Pondicherry or Puducherry is a former French colony
- The city merged into the Indian Union in 1954
- Puducherry is located on the shores of the Bay of Bengal
As you walk down the Promenade towards the French Quarters, you see a plaque painted in blue and yellow that reads “France stands with Ukraine #StandWithUkraine”.
This is not France. This is India; absolutely. This is the white wall outside the French consulate in Puducherry (or Pondicherry), where a message of support for Ukraine shines against the backdrop of India, a country whose foreign policy has been straddling the two worlds of Ukraine and Russia. But Puducherry has been like this since 1674, when Frenchman Francois Martin first turned this village into a bustling French port city. ‘Puducherry’ was named ‘Puduchérie’ in French, meaning ‘new settlement’.
From the 17th century onwards, Puducherry passed from the French to the Dutch, from the French to the British and finally back to the French, before merging into the Indian Union in 1954. The French way of life is still enjoyed today. Today, 5,500 French citizens live in Puducherry and vote in French national elections from within the Indian Union Territory.
As you drive from Chennai to Puducherry, you see the scenery changing. A white gate welcomes you to the Union Territory.
This small town is known for its strong French character as well as for being the residence of Sri Aurobindo. Between the French and the followers of Sage Aurobindo, Puducherry feels like a place out of India.
You can stroll through its lush tree-lined streets; enjoy the salty breeze from the Bay of Bengal that surrounds Puducherry, and then find yourself a cozy spot where you can sit and sip a hot cup of coffee. Add the city’s famous bread and chocolate, and you have a perfect Puducherry experience.
Strolling through the French Quarter will take you to some of Puducherry’s most famous landmarks: Our Lady of Angels Church, where a QR code of Modi’s Digital India sits begging for donations under a tall 18th-century ceiling built by Napoleon III; across the street is the cemetery of the Franciscan Capuchins. These Capuchins are behind the name of your favorite cup of coffee: cappuccino was called so because the coffee resembled the color of a Capuchin’s cloak.
A short distance from the cemetery is the Aurobindo Ashram. The ashram houses the Samadhis of Sri Aurobindo and the Mother. The ashram community consists of over 2,000 people who live according to Sri Aurobindo’s principles. From 1910, when Sri Aurobindo moved to Pondicherry and dedicated his life to Integral Yoga, to 1950, when he breathed his last, he spent his life in pursuit of transformation – of the soul, of the mind, of human consciousness.
Just outside Puducherry is Auroville, which is a world for everyone. Auroville is a living experiment. It is a township built for 50,000 people, where nationality, gender, caste, creed, nothing really matters. It also has its own rules.
Auroville brings a special serenity to Puducherry. With a French touch, the city is a perfect getaway for a long weekend. Another reason to visit Puducherry is the luxurious new Radisson Resort Pondicherry Bay, located between the river and the sea, 10 km from the city.
If you’re on the first floor, your high-ceilinged, warmly coloured chalet offers unforgettable views of the lagoon; alternatively, if you wish to stay in one of their veranda chalets, you have a spacious green lawn at your disposal.
Our time in Puducherry was interspersed with a night at the Radisson Blu Hotel & Suites GRT Chennai Airport, where a new wing played host. If you are travelling to Puducherry via Chennai, this is a good place to spend the night. Tip: Check out the chutney cart at Ministry of Chutneys, one of the restaurants in this hotel. You will find most people asking for the chutney a second time.
Food plays a huge role in the Puducherry experience, and with that in mind, the best moment of our two days at the resort was a masterclass on Franco-Tamil cuisine by celebrity chef Rakesh Sethi. Chef Sethi took the time and effort to prepare a variety of foods that had flavours from both cultures.
At the resort, French know-how meets profound Tamil tradition and perfection; from the food, to the architecture, to the spa, where utmost care is taken to ensure an impeccable experience.
The resort’s lounge is named ‘Arikamedu’, after the area near Puducherry where archaeologists found coins from the 1st century AD, when the Romans came to India for trade. There are many glimpses of history scattered throughout the resort, and you’ll never be too far from the Franco-Tamil lifestyle.
So, if you can’t make it to France for the Olympics this year, maybe plan a trip to this former French colony and melting pot of cultures. Bonus: no visa hassles!
Fact Sheet
How to reach Puducherry: This union territory is located along the Bay of Bengal, 160 km south of Chennai. Fly to Chennai from any major Indian city and then take a taxi to Puducherry. Opting for the ECR (East Coast Road) will give you breathtaking views of the Bay of Bengal.
where to stay: The Radisson Resort Pondicherry Bay is a luxurious new property with its own private lagoon. The resort is half an hour away from the main city center of Puducherry. There is also the Palace de Mahe in White Town (but it is mostly booked in the winter months). There are also many homestays and BNBs in the city.
What to do: If you are traveling from Chennai (or any nearby city), Puducherry is the perfect weekend getaway. If you are flying to Chennai and then driving to Puducherry, it is advisable to do it on a long weekend. The day you reach the city, wander around the French Quarters, visit the Aurobindo Ashram and keep some time for shopping. In the evening, enjoy a stroll along the Bay of Bengal without a vehicle.
On the second day, take a day trip to Auroville. You can rent a two-wheeler from one of the many scooter/bike-rental locations and cover the 12-km route.
When to go: Opt for the winter months between November and February, when Pondicherry is charming, the weather is pleasant, and a stroll along the bay is breezy. Spend a pleasant evening at one of the many rooftop cafes here with a coffee and croissant. After all, you are in a former French colony!
