Mumbai, July 2024: Physically, we are at a beloved speakeasy in Worli Koliwada. But today there is someone else in charge of the cocktails and their enthusiasm is as exciting as it is alluring. The stage is set to take us somewhere new – or, more precisely, to a plush bar in Barcelona’s El Born neighbourhood. The mixologists enthrall us with the philosophies and legends that inspire their liquid creations. They serve us fabulous concoctions in artistic receptacles, some of which illuminate and change colour. Throughout the space, conversation flows as effortlessly as the drinks. After all, the artisans behind the bar are simply living up to their establishment’s name – Paradiso.
The Barcelona speakeasy, which topped the list of the World’s 50 Best Bars in 2022, recently took over Slink and Bardot in Mumbai for two nights. Unlike guests at Paradiso’s original location, those in the city didn’t get a chance to go through the fridge of a pastrami shop to reach the divine delights inside. They did, however, get a chance to savour cocktails from the “Mysteries of the World” menu, expertly crafted by Andrea Pagliarini (senior bartender at Paradiso) and Matteo Ciarpaglini (head of the Paradiso Lab).
Messenza cocktail. Photo credit: Paradiso
The Atlantis-inspired ‘Atlantide’ was served in a spectacular wave-like bowl topped with a gold coin, echoing the motifs of the sea and wealth. The ‘Revival Negroni’, which paid homage to the versatility of mushrooms, came in a covered glass, shaped to resemble the theme. The glowing mixture appeared to change colour – a nod to the mysterious fluidity of the fungus. The ‘Messenza’, derived from the Japanese word messenger, celebrated the Asian roots of its ingredients with a smaller glass “snake head” attached to the glass. Surprise, storytelling and finesse defined not only the drink, but also the experience. Perhaps Andrea describes it better: “Paradiso is a magical place. Its approach is really fun, but also really focused.” Here are edited excerpts from our full conversation with Andrea and Matteo:
LR: Matteo Ciarpaglini (head of the Paradiso lab) and Andrea Pagliarini (senior bartender) take charge of the bar at Slink and Bardot.
What do you like most about your profession? What is it that gives you satisfaction?
Matteo: I would say that’s the creative part. Creativity is one of Paradiso’s core values [hospitality and sustainability are the other two]We are always trying to develop new projects. It’s extremely interesting. We are constantly pushing the boundaries and creating not only new cocktails, but also new sensory experiences. When people come to our bar, we want them to be surprised. We want to offer something unexpected. For example, cocktails that start to glow, garnishes that start to fly, etc. I am also very grateful to work with a team that is deeply involved in the projects. I was there when Paradiso Lab was founded. In the beginning, we were only two people and now we are a group of seven.
When creating an overall cocktail experience, what do you find important besides the drinks themselves?
Andrea: For me, the bar experience is not just about the drinks. At Paradiso, the atmosphere is very important and there are many aspects that influence it. Personally, my journey to becoming a bartender at Paradiso was a long one and helped me understand all the different parts that contribute to the experience. The Paradiso Lab, run by Matteo, is the heart and soul of the bar’s production. But everyone has their own role. For example, as a waiter, you have to work very fast and learn how to handle the crowd once you come in. In the kitchen, the chef will take care of the gastronomy. As a bartender, I have to focus completely on taking care of the customers. In addition to making their drink well, you have to make them feel welcome, build a relationship with them and fix any problems immediately.
The concierge also has a role to play. In fact, the concierge is one of the most important people at Paradiso. We usually have long lines and people can get impatient and frustrated. It can be raining, or it can be hot, and they just want to get in. The concierge has to gently explain the same thing a thousand times to everyone in line. He has to make sure they are comfortable and that is not always easy. We are very lucky because our concierge, Joaquin, is amazing.
Inside the Paradiso Barcelona
What aspect of these acquisitions and collaborations do you enjoy?
Andrea: This is ours [mine and Matteo’s] First time in India. Before us, others from the Paradiso team have visited the country. For me, coming to Mumbai for an event like this is very different, even if you only talk about gastronomy – it’s amazing. I love Asian food, so I’m enjoying the intense flavours and the use of spices here.
Matteo: It’s not just gastronomy, it’s a whole new culture. When you travel to a new country, you meet people and discover new traditions. I think we gain a lot from this kind of collaboration. You get a better understanding not only of your work, but also of the world.
Are you taking any inspiration and/or material away from Mumbai?
Matteo: The easy answer is spices, of course. But there’s another idea I’m keen to learn more about. We’ve been talking to the chefs here and they introduced us to the concept of Ayurveda and how it’s used in food and drinks. It’s definitely something I want to research when I get the chance.
Andrea: I will realise what has inspired me, when I come back to Barcelona. Something similar happened when I went to Japan. I did a lot of research while I was there. When I came back home and was inside the lab, with the doors closed, the ideas started coming back to me. I found myself thinking differently because of my experiences in Japan. So, all I can say is that something is going to happen in terms of new cocktails or flavours [inspired by my trip],
If you had to give one piece of advice to people wanting to try new cocktails, what would it be?
Matteo: I would recommend them to go to an international cocktail bar and listen to the bartenders there. I think there is no one better than them to guide you on your journey. Any good bartender must understand the taste of the customers. They will tell you where to start, which dishes to pair with which drinks, when is the right time to order, etc. And you have to go multiple times to properly understand and appreciate the experience.
Andrea: I agree with Matteo. This is one of the best things you can do when trying something new. Sitting at the counter is also helpful. Maybe you can ask your bartender to make something special for you. Or you can ask them questions to learn more. Whether the bartender is shy or talkative, I’m sure they will answer you because they have passion for what they do – that’s why they’re behind the bar.
