AHA BHA serums available in the market are not always good for your skin
Experts recommend using high concentrations of AHA/BHA with caution as they may cause acne and lead to peeling and dryness of the skin.
In short
- Serums are now vital in Indian skin care routines
- AHA and BHA serums are gaining popularity due to their potential benefits
- However, experts warn against their use
Serums have become an essential part of the skin care routine today, be it a 10-step skin care routine or just a simple serum-moisturizer.
Today, we have a plethora of serums available in the Indian market ranging from peptides to niacinamides and hyaluronic acid that claim to solve all skin problems.
One such product that has recently gained popularity in the beauty market is AHA and BHA serums. However, experts are quite concerned about these serums being sold openly in the Indian market.
But why?
AHA vs BHA Serums
AHA and BHA are two different types of compounds, and both have different uses and benefits.
- AHA stands for Alpha Hydroxy Acid and BHA stands for Beta Hydroxy Acid.
Dr. Rupika Singh, dermatologist and founder of New Delhi-based Akia Aesthetics, says AHA and BHA products are designed to exfoliate the skin.
AHAs, such as glycolic and lactic acids, are water-soluble and target the skin’s surface, helping to remove dead skin cells and improve texture and complexion.
On the other hand, BHAs like salicylic acid are oil-soluble and penetrate deep into pores, making them effective for treating acne and oily skin.
Dr Sanchi, consultant dermatology at Marengo Asia Hospitals, Gurugram, says that AHA is primarily derived from fruits, milk and sugarcane, while BHA is derived from the leaves of wintergreen.
Pro tip: “If you need help removing dead skin cells, improving skin texture, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and increasing skin moisture, use an AHA,” says Dr. Sanchi.
“However, if you want to clear pores, reduce oiliness, and treat acne, use a BHA,” she adds.
Why is it so famous online?
AHA/BHA serums are popular online for their purported benefits, and experts attribute the rise in their usage to a variety of reasons.
For instance, Dr Mythri Chagarla, Consultant Dermatologist at Bengaluru-based Cosmoderma Healthcare, explains, india today AHA and BHA serums are gaining popularity online due to their remarkable ability to improve skin texture, clear acne, and enhance glow.
“Favored by influencers and dermatologists for their exfoliating and anti-aging properties, these serums have become a staple of many skincare routines,” she says.
She also said that the rise in “skin care education” on social media has increased awareness about the benefits of chemical exfoliation.
Potential Science-Backed Benefits
Now, AHA/BHA serums may work for you, as both experts and scientists believe that if used correctly, serums have potential benefits.
For example, a study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology found that glycolic acid (AHA) significantly improved skin texture, reduced hyperpigmentation, and increased collagen synthesis in photo-damaged skin.
Other studies in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment also showed that salicylic acid (BHA) effectively reduced acne lesions and improved overall skin texture. Furthermore, experts also agree about the potential benefits of serums.
Side effects
Dr. Sanchi says that AHA/BHA can have some potential side effects. For example, it can cause:
- irritated
redness, stinging, or burning, especially if you have sensitive skin or are using a high concentration product (We will discuss this in a bit),
- dryness and peeling
Excessive exfoliation can cause the skin to become dry and flaky.
- Increased sensitivity
Both AHAs and BHAs can increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun, increasing the risk of sunburn.
- Breakout
Some people may experience an increase in acne due to impurities being drawn out of the skin.
- Allergies
Dr. Sanchi says that although allergic reactions are rare, they are still possible.
“Always do a patch test first,” she says.
‘Lack of proper regulation in India is disappointing’
Let’s revisit the first side effect of AHA/BHA.
Like Dr. Sanchi, other experts also suggest that we should not use these compounds in high concentrations as they may cause acne and lead to peeling and dryness of the skin.
Today, you can find AHA/BHA in India in many forms, from sheet masks to serums. However, according to Mumbai-based dermatologist Dr Sujeet Shanshanwal, there is no regulation on these products in the skincare market.
“One must be very careful when using them,” he says. He also recommends using a concentration of 2-6 percent for AHAs and 1-2 percent for BHAs on the face.
He compared this to skin care regulations in the United States and the European Union (E.U.).
For example, the Food and Drug Administration, FDA, recommends that over-the-counter (OTC) products should contain no more than 10% glycolic acid or other AHAs. BHAs such as salicylic acid are typically found in OTC products at concentrations of up to 2%.
Similar to the FDA, the EU regulates the concentrations of AHAs and BHAs in cosmetic products and recommends that products intended for home use should have lower concentrations to ensure consumer safety.
points to remember
1. Consult a dermatologist
Always consult a dermatologist before starting any AHA/BHA product. They can prescribe the correct dosage and provide guidance based on your skin type and concerns.
2. Start slowly
Start with a low concentration and see how your skin reacts and gradually increase usage as tolerated. Experts recommend doing a patch test for 2-3 days before testing it on your skin.
Once you start applying this acid to your skin, leave it on for 15-20 minutes initially, and slowly increase the concentration to a maximum of 10 percent. A higher concentration than this is not good for the skin.
3. Sun protection
Finally, if you’re using acids in the morning, always use a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day, as AHAs and BHAs increase sensitivity to the sun.
